Saturday, 11 October 2014

Pintucked Sorbetto

This is my second version of the free Sorbetto pattern by Colette Patterns. I made my first version back in May as per the design, with the box pleat down the front. For the second version I had visions of fine pinktucks on a delicate fabric, which would be nice and light in summer. Naturally, I finished the top in October ;-).

I actually planned and cut out this top a few months ago, but what with moving countries it has sat unsewn in storage until I finally finished it last weekend. I spent a long time trying to work out how to add the pintucks to the pattern, but couldn't really find any tutorials online about how to do it without adding them in as a separate section. So after mulling it over for a while I decided just to try and work it out myself. 

This proved to be a mistake! As I was sewing the top up, my husband commented that it looked quite big. I assured him that it was just the loose nature of the style and that was how it was meant to be. However, when I put the finished top on it did seem quite a lot bigger than my first version. It was as if a whole load of extra width had been added at the front. My mistake suddenly dawned on me - as well as adding extra width to the pattern for the pintucks, I had also added the space between the pintucks. So I'd actually added over an inch of width to the front piece. Argh! This means the neck is wider than intended, the shoulder seams are too far out and the darts are in the wrong place. *Sigh*

When the moment of realisation struck I'd already finished the top, French seams and everything. I have taken the side seams in by over half an inch on each side to try and fix my error, but this has effected the back (which was originally the right size!) and made the side seams hang a bit oddly. 

Badly hanging back. Maybe should have ironed it!

I added sleeves to my Sorbetto using this free pattern piece. The piece was too big for my top, so I made the gathers on top of the sleeve obvious. I also shortened them by an inch. 

Erm, but see how that sleeve is hanging strangely? Yep, I sewed them both on the wrong way round! I think this was because I was pretty confused by trying to French seam the sleeves, so wasn't concentrating on which one I was using. 

These pintucks may have caused me problems, but they are pretty.

You may recognise the fabric as it is the same fabric I used for my Short Shorts. I believe it's Robert Kaufman's Veronica Voile in grey. Sewing the fabric unlined was a bit tricky, it's pretty slidey and frayed quite a lot. Soo light and drapey though.

On my original version of the pattern I made a few changes. I tucked out some gaping at the neck and armhole, cut the pattern to the longest length, graded in to a smaller size at the waist and moved the bust darts down about an inch. Having since reread the instructions I also realised that I sewed the neck binding on differently to the instructions - I applied mine as if I was binding the edge of a quilt, which could explain why it was so fiddly to do! I prefer the look of it to the original pattern though. 

Binding close up.

Despite my mistakes with this top I'm still fairly pleased with the finished piece. It's lovely and light and is good for layering. And anyway, you learn from your mistakes right?! I'm definitely going to try adding pintucks to another pattern, they are time-consuming but very satisfying thing to sew.

Also, yay for free patterns!

Here are some flat shots...

Pretty French seams :-)
Massively taken in seams!
Goofy grin shows my mixed feelings about this top!


  1. This looks lovely, you've done a great job!

  2. I really like the fabric and the neckline... is that the part with the French seams?

    1. Hey Tara! Thanks :) the French seams are where one piece joins another - for example the front to the back and the bodice to the sleeves. Using a French seam finish means all the raw edges of the fabric are enclosed in the seam and therefore the inside is as neat as the outside. Hope that makes sense!


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